Tibbi's Space

ID Wine Glass Coaster Pattern

2008-11-29T17:47:00.000-08:00

My second pattern.

You know, when you're with friends, and everyone has a glass of something (sparkling cider for me). You put your glass down, and when you go to pick it up, you've forgotten which one it was.

Well, with these coasters you won't have that problem anymore (I hope). Make a set with different colors (or combinations of colors) and everyone will be able to have one just for their glass.

Clicking on the pattern's cover will download the doubled sided pdf (160kb). Be sure you set the page setup to landscape before printing

Click this cover for the single sided version

Pattern Materials:

Cotton:
Suggested Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream Solids
Yarn Weight: Worsted Cotton / 10 ply (9 wpi)

Nylon (substituted hdc in round 5 to bring to size):
Suggested Yarn: Plymouth 24k, Eros Glitz
Yarn Weight: Worsted Nylon / 10 ply (9 wpi)

Hook: US F

Uses simple sc, slip stitch, and on occasion the hdc

Abbrev:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Slst: slip stitch
MC: main color
CC: crossing chain color

Directions:
With MC make a magic loop: ch1, 6 sc in loop. Pull tail and close loop. (6 sections)

Round 1: 2 sc in each sc (12sc) (2 sc in each section)

Round 2: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc)repeat to end. (18 sc) (3 sc in each section)

Round 3: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc)repeat to end. (24 sc) (4 sc in each section)

Round 4: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc,repeat to end. (30 sc) (5 sc in each section)

Round 5: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc)repeat to end. (36 sc) (6 sc in each section)

Round 6: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc)repeat to end. (42 sc) (7 sc in each section)

Test the first one you make against a wine glass to check for size. You might need to add or subtract a round depending on the yarn and/or hook you use. Also there could be a difference depending how tightly you crochet.

Sl st last chain into first sc of the round. Ch1.

Round 7: 1 sc in each sc, FLO. (42 sc). Bind off. Weave in ends.

It might be a good idea to place a piece of yarn, or stitch marker) every 7th stitch, starting with the 1st stitch (1, 8, etc) for doing the crossing chains next.

Add in crossing chains

You will be skipping around the edge of the coaster, in the direction that you crochet.  Right or Left depending on your handiness.

Sl st into the 2nd stitch of the last round.  Sc in the next 12 sts (st#14), Ch14.

Count over 21sts.  Or, go to the third marker (f) over.
Sc into st#36 (marker f).
Sc into next 6 sts (you are at st#42).
Ch14, and sc into st#22 (marker d). Sc into next 13 sts ( you are at st#35).
Ch14, and sc back at st#15 (marker c). Sc into last 6 sts.
Ch14, and sc into st#1 (Start). (Consider weaving over/under here)
You should be back at the start.
Next, sc into each of the 42 st of the crossing chain row. Slst into 1st st.

Bind off, weave in ends.

Variations: Slst instead of sc for last round of crossing chain. So you can use BLO or FLO.

If you have done one less, or more, rows in the coaster you will need to adjust the number of stitches between the markers.

Double Seeded Moss Dishcloth

2008-09-27T13:17:00.001-07:00

My first pattern. Made from two knitting stitches. I make these all the time.

Clicking on the pattern's cover will download the doubled sided pdf (160kb). Be sure you set the page setup to landscape before printing.

Click this cover for the single sided version

Pattern Materials:
Suggested Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream Solids
Yarn Weight: Worsted Cotton / 10 ply (9 wpi)
Needle: US 8 / 5.0 mm

Memo:
    Uses the Moss Stitch and the Double Seed Stitch
    4 border stitches on each side (8 sts),
    multiples of 4

Directions:

Cast on 40 sts.

bdr 1: knit across
bdr 2: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 3: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 4: k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1
bdr 5: k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1

row 1: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1
row 2: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1
row 3: k1, p1, k1, p1     *k2, p2*         k1, p1, k1, p1
row 4: k1, p1, k1, p1     *k2, p2*         k1, p1, k1, p1

Repeat rows 1-4, 12 times, or until you are a border-width from the end.

End with row 1-2 repeat:
row 1: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1
row 2: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1

Finish off with border:

bdr 1: k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1
bdr 2: k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1
bdr 3: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 4: p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 5: knit across

Bind off and weave in ends

Patterns Test

2008-09-26T14:03:00.001-07:00

Here is a blank pattern. In the future, it will be a real one.

Clicking on the pattern's cover will download the actual pdf.