Wednesday, December 1, 2021

So Many Years, So Little To Say

 Just remembered I have this blog. Obviously I've survived all the crap happening in the world. Got all my shots so probably won't die from a certain virus that should never have taken over everything if we'd had a decent leader when it showed up.

Driving school bus now

Tried to get my Class A CDL, but I can't back a trailer for sh*t, but I can drive a semi really good now.

My colitis might be going into remission, finally after almost 15 years. We'll see.

The healthcare system in this country still sucks balls. 

 

Also, what the hell is it with healthcare workers being all "I won't trust science, who cares if I infect patients" crap. Go work at McDonalds and leave us alone.

Thursday, October 1, 2015

Tibbi's Crocheted Fingerless Gloves






Chain 31.

Note: Leave a long tail if you want to use it to make a loop for a button to close the wrist part.

Rows 1-8:
(30 sc, chain 1, turn ) 8x
End of Row 8, slst to connect first to last sc.

Row 9: (2 sc, 4 sc) 6x, slst to first sc. (36 sts total)

Row 10: Chain 2, dc in sc, (dc in next sc, chain 1, skip sc) 17x,
dc in last sc. slst in first dc.

Row 11: Chain 2, dc in dc, (chain 1, skip dc, dc in chain space) 17x,
dc in last dc, slst in first dc.

Row 12: Chain 2, dc in first dc, (dc in chain space, skip dc, chain 1)17x,
dc in last dc, slst in first dc.

Repeat Rows 11/12 until you get to the base of the thumb. Fasten off.

Attach yarn at the 22nd st (dc) on the last round. This is one side of the thumb. Working away from the thumb, you will be making a sc in each dc and chain space until you get to the other side of the thumb.

Row 1: 29 sc, chain 1, turn.
Row 2: sc in each sc, chain 2, turn.
Row 3: (dc in sc, chain 1, skip sc) 14x, dc in last sc, chain 7,
slst into first dc to make it round again, chain 1.
Row 4: sc in each dc and chain space, 7 sc in the 7 chain space.

Row 5 and beyond. sc in sc until the glove is the height you'd like. Fasten off.

Repeat for other glove. 

Ravelry Link: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/tibbiscott/crocheted-fingerless-gloves



Saturday, March 17, 2012

Saturday, November 29, 2008

ID Wine Glass Coaster Pattern

My second pattern.

You know, when you're with friends, and everyone has a glass of something (sparkling cider for me). You put your glass down, and when you go to pick it up, you've forgotten which one it was.

Well, with these coasters you won't have that problem anymore (I hope). Make a set with different colors (or combinations of colors) and everyone will be able to have one just for their glass.




Clicking on the pattern's cover will download the doubled sided pdf (160kb). Be sure you set the page setup to landscape before printing









Click this cover for the single sided version





Pattern Materials:

Cotton:
Suggested Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream Solids
Yarn Weight: Worsted Cotton / 10 ply (9 wpi)

Nylon (substituted hdc in round 5 to bring to size):
Suggested Yarn: Plymouth 24k, Eros Glitz
Yarn Weight: Worsted Nylon / 10 ply (9 wpi)

Hook: US F

Uses simple sc, slip stitch, and on occasion the hdc

Abbrev:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Slst: slip stitch
MC: main color
CC: crossing chain color

Directions:
With MC make a magic loop: ch1, 6 sc in loop. Pull tail and close loop. (6 sections)

Round 1: 2 sc in each sc (12sc) (2 sc in each section)

Round 2: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc)repeat to end. (18 sc) (3 sc in each section)

Round 3: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc)repeat to end. (24 sc) (4 sc in each section)

Round 4: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc,repeat to end. (30 sc) (5 sc in each section)

Round 5: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc)repeat to end. (36 sc) (6 sc in each section)

Round 6: (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc)repeat to end. (42 sc) (7 sc in each section)

Test the first one you make against a wine glass to check for size. You might need to add or subtract a round depending on the yarn and/or hook you use. Also there could be a difference depending how tightly you crochet.

Sl st last chain into first sc of the round. Ch1.

Round 7: 1 sc in each sc, FLO. (42 sc). Bind off. Weave in ends.

It might be a good idea to place a piece of yarn, or stitch marker) every 7th stitch, starting with the 1st stitch (1, 8, etc) for doing the crossing chains next.

Add in crossing chains

You will be skipping around the edge of the coaster, in the direction that you crochet. 
Right or Left depending on your handiness.

Sl st into the 2nd stitch of the last round. 
Sc in the next 12 sts (st#14), Ch14.

Count over 21sts. 
Or, go to the third marker (f) over.
Sc into st#36 (marker f).
Sc into next 6 sts (you are at st#42).
Ch14, and sc into st#22 (marker d). Sc into next 13 sts ( you are at st#35).
Ch14, and sc back at st#15 (marker c). Sc into last 6 sts.
Ch14, and sc into st#1 (Start). (Consider weaving over/under here)
You should be back at the start.
Next, sc into each of the 42 st of the crossing chain row. Slst into 1st st.

Bind off, weave in ends.

Variations: Slst instead of sc for last round of crossing chain. So you can use BLO or FLO.

If you have done one less, or more, rows in the coaster you will need to adjust the number of stitches between the markers.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Double Seeded Moss Dishcloth

My first pattern. Made from two knitting stitches. I make these all the time.


Clicking on the pattern's cover will download the doubled sided pdf (160kb). Be sure you set the page setup to landscape before printing.


Click this cover for the single sided version




Pattern Materials:  
Suggested Yarn:   Lily Sugar'n Cream Solids
Yarn Weight:   Worsted Cotton / 10 ply (9 wpi)
Needle:   US 8 / 5.0 mm


Memo:  
    Uses the Moss Stitch and the Double Seed Stitch
    4 border stitches on each side (8 sts),
    multiples of 4

Directions:

Cast on 40 sts.

bdr 1:   knit across
bdr 2:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 3:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 4:   k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1
bdr 5:   k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1

row 1:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1
row 2:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1
row 3:   k1, p1, k1, p1     *k2, p2*         k1, p1, k1, p1
row 4:   k1, p1, k1, p1     *k2, p2*         k1, p1, k1, p1

Repeat rows 1-4, 12 times, or until you are a border-width from the end.


End with row 1-2 repeat:  
row 1:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1
row 2:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p2, k2*         p1, k1, p1, k1


Finish off with border:  

bdr 1:   k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1
bdr 2:   k1, p1, k1, p1     *k1, p1, k1, p1*     k1, p1, k1, p1
bdr 3:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 4:   p1, k1, p1, k1     *p1, k1, p1, k1*     p1, k1, p1, k1
bdr 5:   knit across

Bind off and weave in ends

Friday, September 26, 2008

Patterns Test




Here is a blank pattern. In the future, it will be a real one.

Clicking on the pattern's cover will download the actual pdf.